Chrysler RAZ Radio Filter Modification The Chrysler "joystick" / 5-band EQ radios of the mid 90's were built with spectacular AM audio bandwidth (automatic / variable). This bandwidth has been lost on the 3-band EQ Chrysler "RAZ" AM Stereo / FM Stereo /CD/ Cassette automotive audio units of the 1999-2002 variety - while they still feature AM Stereo and the Motorola MC13022 chipset, the bandwidth is quite a bit less than its predecessors. It appears that it is possible to restore some of this lost bandwidth to the turn-of-the century "RAZ" stereos by replacing its muRata Filter, and this modification project is described below. Make changes at your own risk, as the author assumes no liability, nor your soldering skills. The directions below refer only to the "TWO-TAB" rectangular "RAZ" and not to the newer version with 'rounded' corners and four mounting screws. You will notice that you will receive more adjacent channel interference on non-local signals as this modification widens that bandwidth, and the RAZ seems to go out of stereo a little easier than before on weaker stations - or perhaps it is just more noticeable now than with the narrower bandwidth. You will NOT get UX1 quality bandwidth nor MetroSound bandwidth, but a happy medium. ITEMS (Parts & Tools) REQUIRED: 1- I.F. FILTER. Your replacement AM stereo wide bandwidth I.F. filter can be removed from an older AM stereo radio - a damaged mid-90's Chrysler or even from a Delco/GM AM Stereo radio. These filters typically are just under 1/2" long x 1/4"wide x 3/8" tall and are a blue or black color and have 5 'legs' that go through the board. Four of the pins are in a row, and the 5th is opposite this row. Typical markings on your good replacement filter would be labeled: "SFG450F" or "50EX4" or "SFH450F3". Make sure that your new replacement I.F. filter has five pins/legs: 4-in-a-row and one pin/leg opposite the row. 2- Suggest a 15-watt soldering iron with a grounded plug. 3- Small diameter 60/40 solder (0.032 diameter). 4- A solder removal device - either a spring-loaded vacuum device or a 'squeeze-bulb' device to pull the molten solder off of soldered parts. 5- Philips head screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, a pair of pliers and a 10mm socket tool. 6- Plenty of time so that you're not rushed and don't have to drive anywhere for a few hours. RADIO AND TUNER SECTION REMOVAL: 1- Remove the wide-bandwidth filter from the old/damaged radio. Unsolder only one lead at a time using the solder removal tool. Wait at least one minute between each lead being removed as I have already destroyed one of these filters with too much heat - it will melt and pull the filter apart. 2- Remove the RAZ radio from the Chrysler vehicle. There are several 'aftermarket radio' websites that show you where all of the hidden screws are to remove faceplates (typically 2 screws, remove a cover plate, then another 2 screws). The radio is held in place by two 10mm hex head screws - and there's a 3rd screw holding the ground strap on the rear of the radio. Carefully remove the grey and black connectors, the 2-pin connector, the antenna cable and the black ground lead. 3- Take the whole radio to your workbench/work area. Look at the radio from the front, on the right-hand side remove the two Philips head screws that hold the black faceplate to the right side of the radio. There is also two more philips head screws on the back of the radio that need to be removed. There is one more philips head screw on the antenna socket - remove this as well. 4- Using a very small flathead screwdriver (or similar flat item), gently pry-up the 3 black tabs on the faceplate: one on the top of the right side, the bottom of the right side and the right side. Pry just a tiny bit so that you can pull the faceplate of the radio forward (not off, just forward 1/4"). With the black faceplate pulled forward a little, you should now be able to pull the whole metal right-hand side of the radio off of the unit. This tuner section is only about 1/2" thick, and the antenna socket is part of this assembly. There is only one tan connector holding this tuner section onto the radio, so remove slowly and pulling it off as straight as you can so as not to bend the pins on this connector or its inline pins. TUNER SECTION MODIFICATION: 1- Lay this tuner module down on the metal side so that you see the printed circuit board facing up. As you can see there are four metal "legs" that connect the PC board to the metal case. Using the solder removal tool and a hot soldering iron, remove the solder at each of the four legs that penetrate the PC board. 2- After removing the solder at these four 'legs', use the pliers to gently move the small metal tabs that stick above the PC board so that they are straight, as they all have a slight twist in them. After they are straightened, you should be able to easily remove the PC board from the metal side plate (if all solder has been removed). 3- Locate the existing I.F. Filter unit. It is very close to the Motorola AM Stereo chip (MC13022) that is on its own elevated tiny PC board. This unit is most likely black and marked with "50G". On the opposite side of the board, this filter (four legs/pins in a row, plus one solo pin). Patiently unsolder one leg at a time with sufficient time between each leg to allow it to cool before proceeding to the next pin. After unsoldering all five legs/pins, the I.F. filter should almost fall out. 4- Gently install the I.F. filter from the component side of the board, making sure each pin goes cleanly through each hole - if not, use the de-soldering tool to clear-out each hole before installing the new I.F. filter. 5- Solder each leg with the 15Watt soldering iron, allowing time between each point for the device to cool-down to avoid damage. 6- Re-install the metal plate to the tuner board. Gently give a slight twist (the direction of the twist is shown by arrows on the PC board) to the top of each of the legs. Apply a small amount of solder on each of these four points. 7- Make sure the right side of the faceplate is still pulled forward enough to allow for re-installation of the tuner unit. Examine the tan connector on the RAZ head to make sure none of the pins are bent; if all pins on the connector are straight, align the tan connector on the tuner module with the connector on the RAZ head unit and push together. The metal case has two tabs that fit over the edge of the radio as well. Reinstall the 3 screws on the rear and two on the side. Slide the faceplate back until it make a click at all three points. VEHICLE TEST & RE-INSTALLATION: 1- It is highly suggested that you test the unit in your vehicle first before putting all the dash parts back together. It is also suggested that you make the GREY connector your last connection after plugging-in the black connector, antenna plug, 2-pin plug, black ground connector and screwing-in the ground strap. 2- Turn the key to ACC and tune in your local AM station. Verify bandwidth improvement (you may have to move the vehicle to a 'sweet spot' to test). If AM, FM, CD and cassette are all working, then put the dash back together. CONCLUSION: Now that you've made it this far - congratulations - take a break! Please report your comments and suggestions back to the AM Stereo Yahoo Group that we can all improve on these radios, and please share any additional changes or adjustments beyond these that can further improve these radios. There is a host of adjustments that can be made on the side of the tuner, and hopefully someone can provide documentation for those adjustments on the Chrysler RAZ radio. Proceed at your own risk - author assumes no liability for damage or injury.